Tuesday, September 11, 2012

День четырнадцатый / day fourteen.

Total distance 38.98 km. Total time 9 hours 01 minutes.

Пройдено 38.98 км за 9 часов 01 минуту.

Night was grate. Nobody is snoring. Nobody woke up at 5 am. Just small accident happened - my wife Ksusha was so interesting why she can't call me from my iPhone using FaceTime, and she can get from her friend call with no problem. She was so curious that playing with iPhone at 10 pm ( which is 4 !!! AM in Spain) that he finally manage to make this call. Even she cut off it immoderately, I got ring my phone twice. Next twenty minutes I tryed to find out who did it. Finally I called home and Zhenia explained everything happened. But I needed another half an hour to fell asleep.

In start of the day I had two choices where to go. First way was newest path, followed by main road through couple of villages, where you can fill your water tank by water and your stomach by food. Second one is original ancient road used by pilgrims from very start. You can see on the pictures this road surrounded by fence.
But on this road on continues was of about 23 kilometers nothing exist to support piligrim's life - no villages, no fountains with water, nothing. Just dusty road in the middle of nowhere, looks like desert. But this original road and I selected it, as you can already guess. And I didn't regret after I finished. Not many pilgrims are using this path, I didn't see much on my way. First was Austrian lady in last point where I can my lovely "coffee con letche" ( coffee with milk). She was very slow walker and I lost her from visibility in probably half an hour. Second was the man who was walking in front of me about 300 meters ahead. The weather was fine for walk. In the morning was cloudy, and looks like it going to be rain( never happened btw). After hour and half or so he layed down on side of the road to rest. I reached him in 5 minutes and he asked "Where we are ?" I said if he has a map I can show approximately. "Yes"-he said and gave me piece of paper one foot long and one foot wide. I saw this "map" before... In one of the bar in St. Jean Pied de Pond (our starting point) there were ads and this list of papers with curve line and dots on it as a cities and bigger villages you'll go through Camino. Nothing even close to the real map. It like you'll draw a circle on paper and said "this is Canada". And asking after "where is Ottawa?". I grabbed my guide book from my backpack and show him where aproximately we are. He was kind of shocked - he asked twice and I explained him that this is rural road. And we already about 7 km away from last village and closest albergue is about 10 km upfront. How people can be so irresponsible traveling in oftener country with piece of paper just looks like a map... After he introduced himself as a Charly from Ireland, I said I'm from Canada. He asked is I'm French Canadian ( I think because of my accent ) I said No. My native language is Russian. He said he's seeing first time real people from Soviet Union :-)
We got good chat and I moved ahead and he still laying on the back of the road getting rest and probably thinking "what I'm doing here in the middle of nowhere?".

In couple of hours after I found alone barn standing beside the road. I sat in the shadow and get my guide to find out where I'm now. I was aproximately 3 km. from my destination point for today. I got my lunch, relaxed for another five minutes and was ready to go.

In couple hours I got in albergue where I found Ravil, my Russian-Finnish friend whom I didn't see last night.

We have good chat and good dinner.

But for the next day we had different planes. He's planning to stop in Leon to explore the city. I'm planning to pass through city-center and go farther. But probably we will met somewhere in the future because Ravi is good walker and very fast in the road. Probably as fast as me twenty years ago :-).

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